Cool!
I recently perused their book (thanks to Jim Rimmer) and it seems like a great place to be.

Questions? I guess I have one - pretty specific too:
If I want to do what Koch did in metal with Neuland (ignoring for the sake of argument the vast difference in actual talent) but in wood (basically cutting forms "blindly", without any drawing) what do I need to know? What kind of wood should I use? I have some basswood in the garage. What about tools? And how smooth/clean does the surface have to be, like does it need to be treated in any way? Etc.

BTW, that shower is too good.

hhp

"This is the most ridiculous costume ever"

hehe

I think it's neat. And the effort put into making it is amazing.

Actually Dan I'd love a question answered . . .

Do they still run jobs for hire? What do they charge to do a run?

Unfortuantely the only website I can find for them sells old posters vs. accepting new projects so I was discouraged not to find any sort of online quoting tool or printing information . . .

Thanks in advance!
Stuart :D

Are you using the typeface I worked on for them?*

http://cmhof.preview.kricos.com/hatch_history01.jpg/main.jpg

*(This is nothing impressive...I just helped draw out missing characters of that circus font that we then had Hamilton Wood Type Museum recut for us...still, it was fun!)

Hrant

As I mentioned, I have been toying with the idea of cutting some woodtype over the last year. Reading the Hatch Show Print book clinshed the decision for me.

I am going to get a sample piece of 1/4" birch and/or poplar plywood and try it on that.

I have had some correspondence over the last ten years sor so with Christopher Manson of Rockville Maryland (sold him some type for his bookwork).

He is in opinion, the premier woodcut (not wood engraving) artist today. His favorite subject is mediaevalsim, and he has done a great many wonderful, gutsy illustrations in that vein.

He once mentioned to me that he uses the above mentioned types of wood, but I don't know if they are a special selection or straight from the lumber store.

I am certain the wood needs very little if any preparation. Birch ply is a nice tight grain and very smooth. tiy should be able to print it without picking up any eyes from the grain.

I am going to email you his phone number offline, becuase
I couldn't find an email address for him in the many mentions of his work on the web.

As far as tools, Chris could tell you what he uses. I have a large selection of wood chisels from which to draw, but I have picked them up randomly over the past forty years; some of them I have made. A fair set of tools can be bought from any Lee Valley store across Canada. Look for Woodcut knives in their catalog.

My paln is to pantograph the letters straight up to the finished line, and then go in and hand cut the tight pinches etc. This is the way the Hamilton Wood Type folks did and still do it.

If starting out without any kind of pantograph, I would recommend using a router, and staying about a 1/16" away from the finished line. The rest you could finish with knives. I think you would find this a breeze. Just do some practice pieces sbefore gettiing serious.

Neuland is a great subject. In fact, Hamilton used to off