A big question is whether it's a PostScript laser printer or not. (For this purpose, even third-party PostScript emulations are fine.)

If it's not a PostScript laser printer, or you use a PS compatible laser in a non-PS mode such as PCL, whatever you do will get sent as RGB data by the printer driver and converted to CMYK at the printer end. It's impossible to get really nice solid colored text in this case. Sorry.

If it IS a PS laser, you need to be using a PS driver, and an application that allows you to set your colors as CMYK colors, and to turn off color management for your CMYK color space. Then you can specify solid CMYK colors. For example, a nice bright red might be 100C-100M-0Y-0K. As long as the printer's registration is okay, that would print out pretty well.

Being an Adobe guy, I know how to do all this in InDesign, but not QuarkXPress. Last time I looked, Word's internal color model was strictly RGB. What application are you using?

Regards,

T

I'm using Adobe InDesign & Illustrator.

To be honest, I'm not really sure regarding the printer being a Postscript laser or not. Could you explain the difference? I know I can specify CMYK colours, and even set the percentage of each colour manually when printing. It's a Minolta printer. (I can get the model name, if needed.)

I've been told mixing inks would give a "halftone image" of the text – and thus a lower resolution.

Thomas is spot-on about keeping the colours "pure" and if you can, that's certainly the way to go. I've also had good luck with reproducing colours with one (and even two, depending on what sort of percentages you end up with) of C, M, or Y, plus K, which at least gives you a little more flexibility.

I can't find the file right now, but I did a project a number of years ago that used a nice teal with a rich brown that worked out very well. Getting one of the fans that translates Pantone colours into CMYK would also be very useful as a starting point.

Your best bet for color reproduction on a laser is to get a Pantone CMYK palette, find a color you like, and print a sample of the nearest ten colors to see if you can find something that matches it. Some colors look great on a laser and some look dreadful—it’s really just a trial and error thing. I have a KonicaMinolta laser printer and the color is pretty terrible overall; when I want good laser color I use a Docutech system or just have it run off at a local print shop that keeps their high-end Xante machines in tip-top shape.

Thanks

A pure red looks good even if the registration is not so great, because any exposed yellow is practically invisible. This also lets you use lower percentages of yellow if you wish; as long as your magenta stays at 100, it won't look screened.

Thank you. That is very helpful.

James,
Who do you use for high end Xante?

ChrisL

ABC Imaging on 20th St. NW. Just give them at least 24 hours to get it right—when they rush jobs, it can be pretty obvious.

Thanks James!

ChrisL

Good practice in a high-volume color copy shop dictates that the machines be calibrated every morning for color accuracy and registration, so the earlier in the day a job runs, the better it stands a chance of being as perfect as the copier is capable of achieving. Ambient humidity plays a factor, too; on very damp days, high-speed copiers tend to jam more often, which can screw up the calibration. On the other hand, if the air is too dry, there's a problem with jams caused by static build-up, so--during cold weather--earlier in the day is better, too...